好茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么？

　　如果有一種全球通用的語言，那一定是“茶”。無論你來自哪里，我們都可以因為一杯茶，共享一段美好的時光。4月19日晚，來自五湖四海的朋友相聚在被稱為法國“孔子學(xué)院”的昆明“法語聯(lián)盟”，觥籌交錯，茶香四溢，伴著優(yōu)美的中西和樂，共同度過了一個美妙的夜晚，普洱茶就這樣曼妙地打開了...

　　If there is an universal language, that must be tea. No matter where are you from, we can sit down and share some sweet tea time. On April 19th, we gathered together in Kunming Alliance Francaise, accompanied by romantic wine and aromatic tea, listened to beautiful the western and Chinese traditional tutti, spent a wonderful and pleasant evening, we all astonished that how interesting and romantic to enjoy pu-erh tea this way!

　　此次活動是由“葡言茶語”全程策劃，昆明法語聯(lián)盟，六山賀開古茶莊園，杰曦法國葡萄酒，普洱雜志聯(lián)合承辦的“葡萄酒對話普洱茶”的主題系列開幕式。通過每月一次的主題論壇，開展普洱茶與葡萄酒的深入對話，從而找到更多普洱茶行業(yè)的參考標(biāo)準(zhǔn)和品牌推廣途徑。

　　Through the series of conferences monthly hosted by Discovercha together with Kunming Alliance Francais, Hekai Ancient Tea Estate, JieXi French Wine and Pu-erh Magazine, we aim to popularize French wine culture, and most importantly to seek for some solutions or standards which will work on Pu-erh industry.

　　葡言茶語

　　當(dāng)一些野生的水果自然成熟，落地發(fā)酵，發(fā)生了美妙的變化，自然的釀制成了天然的美酒，于是，人類發(fā)明了酒。最早的釀酒坊可以追逐到6000多年前的古亞美尼亞，之后逐漸了有葡萄酒。到了古埃及時代，法老文明的興起，因為葡萄酒的顏色與人類的血液及其相似，被用于祭祀，這樣的習(xí)慣沿襲到古希臘和猶太教中。到了古羅馬時代，帝國的征戰(zhàn)和擴(kuò)張，領(lǐng)土幾乎覆蓋了整個歐洲，所到之處，也是葡萄酒的所及之地，包括今天大家耳熟能詳?shù)姆▏?、德國、意大利、西班牙、葡萄牙等。?jīng)過漫長的黑暗中世紀(jì)，1492年，哥倫布開啟了航海環(huán)球旅行，意外地發(fā)現(xiàn)了美洲，葡萄酒因此也被跨越海洋帶到了美洲。隨后的荷蘭、法國的殖民擴(kuò)張，將葡萄酒隨之帶到了北美，南非，澳大利亞，新西蘭等，葡萄酒從此在全世界開花結(jié)果，散發(fā)著誘人的酒香。

　　Imagine how wine was invented? When some wild fruits fell off onto the ground, and got fermented, that became the initial wine. The earliest winery can be dated back to 6000 years ago in ancient Armenia, then gradually, wine was invented. In ancient Egypt era, because of the risen of Pharaoh, wine was used as the important sacrament due to its resemblance to blood. Such customs were inherited through ancient Greek, used in Judaism as well. However, wine was mainly spread along Mediterranean sea until during the Ancient Rome time, with the expansion and colony of Rome Empire, wine reached everywhere in Europe, including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc. During the dark Middle Ages, wine making was perfected as well because of development and expansion of church. In 1492, Columbus discovered the New World, therefore, wine landed in other new continent. With European further colony and conquest, wine reached further south America, north America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, almost reached each corner of the world, conquered the whole earth.

　　法語聯(lián)盟

　　這故事是不是似曾相識呢？如果說葡萄酒扮演的是征服者的角色，隨著帝國的變化和世界版圖的改變而改變，那么，茶則更多的是扮演了和平使者的角色。“神農(nóng)嘗百草，日遇七十二毒，得一荼而解之?！辈?，因其藥用功能被發(fā)現(xiàn)，被利用，后被用于祭祀，又因佛家、道家的發(fā)展而發(fā)展，興盛而繁榮。到了唐代，誕生了偉大的茶圣陸羽，成書《茶經(jīng)》，流傳千史；大唐茶詩，百余文人儒士共筑繁榮；茶馬古道將茶傳入邊疆少數(shù)民族；龍團(tuán)鳳餅，茶文化登峰造極，宋氏王朝成也敗也。宋時，榮西禪師兩渡中國，將茶帶入日本，完成了《吃茶養(yǎng)生記》，成就了日本茶道。13世紀(jì)，沿著茶馬古道大篷車，茶傳入蒙古，后逐漸傳入俄羅斯。大航海時代，沿著海上絲綢之路，繞過好望角，葡萄牙和荷蘭將茶引入歐洲，成為時尚，葡萄牙公主凱瑟琳下嫁英王查理二世，英式下午茶因此而成名。東印度公司，更是為英國創(chuàng)造了巨額財富，締造了日不落帝國。殖民當(dāng)然也不總是一帆風(fēng)順的，波士頓傾茶事件拉響了美國獨(dú)立戰(zhàn)爭的號角。英國因為對茶之癮，白銀外流，財政赤字，于是向中國傾銷鴉片，幾十年后，國人終于覺醒，發(fā)動了虎門銷煙，因此點(diǎn)燃了第一次鴉片戰(zhàn)爭的戰(zhàn)火，從此拉開了中國的近代史。茶，從另外一個方面改變了全世界的版圖！

　　Does it sound similar? If wine played the role of conqueror, then tea played the role of peace messenger. Tea was found and used as medicine initially, then used in sacrifice later too. It fluctuated with the development of Buddhism and Zen. Until Tang dynasty, the birth of tea saint Luyu achieved the great Tea Classics, widely spread even now. The prosperous and stable economy in Tang had bloomed the tea culture, gave birth to lots of tea literature and poets, tea was brought to border minorities along the Ancient Tea Horse Road at that time, changed their life. After that, tea culture in Song dynasty reached its heyday, whisked tea and tea drama were the most popular tea among royals and nobles classes. Meanwhile, Eisai came to China twice, brought tea and tea seeds to Japan, started Japanese tea and promoted Song whisked tea. During the Maritime Navigation Era, tea was imported by Portugal and Holland into Europe, explored its new land. Since Princess Catherine married CharlieⅡ, had popularized the afternoon tea in whole Britain. The British East Indian company earned immense amount of fortune by trading tea and other eastern goods, assisted in building the Empire of United Kingdom. Tea is tender and gentle, but it can cause evil and ambition. In order to fight again UK’s high tax and manipulation, the Boston Tea Party throw the Britain’s tea away into the bay, fueling the American Revolution. On the other side, Britain became addicted to tea, spent vast money on Chinese tea, in order to balance the finance deficit, they successfully dumped opium into China. In decades of years, finally, China said no, and burnt the opium, therefore caused the first Opium War(1840 - 1842), China entered modern history. It’s no hard to see , tea magically changed the world.

　　六大茶山

　　無獨(dú)有偶，茶與酒都承載了東西方的文化、藝術(shù)、哲學(xué)思想，一盞茶是天地的精華，一輩酒是西方的智慧。它們都是上天賜予人類的禮物，經(jīng)過人類之手，制成了最美的甘露和佳釀。哲學(xué)家柏拉圖、亞里士多德、伏爾泰都曾是葡萄酒的狂熱愛好者，美酒為其醞釀了杰出的哲學(xué)思想，狄德羅的《我飲故我在》成為今天最暢銷的葡萄酒哲學(xué)向?qū)?；在中國，不管琴棋書畫詩歌茶，還是柴米油鹽醬醋茶，茶都是生活中非常重要的一部分，承載了儒釋道的東方哲學(xué)。我們需要時刻保持空杯的狀態(tài)，斟上1/4到1/3的葡萄酒于酒杯，才能更好的享受其芬芳和甘醇；也要懂得拿起、放下的生活智慧，活在當(dāng)下，才不負(fù)人生。

　　Coincidently, both wine and tea carry the cultures, arts and philosophies, a cup of tea is the essence of nature, and a glass of wine is the wisdom of the west. They are the best gifts, granted by nature, through mankind, turn into the best liquid for us. Philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, Voltaire are wine lovers, I drink therefore I am: A Philosopher's Guide to Wine wrote by Roger Scruton, is a great book inspires many drinkers. Wine indeed gives birth to abundant of philosophy thoughts, so does tea. In China, tea can be elegant as guqin, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, music; tea can be ordinary as firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, it plays the most important part to us, carries the eastern wisdom of Confucianism, Zen and Buddhism. It is necessary that we keep humble, so we are able to enjoy the life and accept more, just like that when we take 1/4 to 1/3 glass of wine to enjoy it better. It is necessary that we know how to accept some imperfection and let it go. Enjoy the moment is the wise choice.

　　杰曦法國

　　1855年，為了能在巴黎世界博覽會上向世界弘揚(yáng)法國優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄酒，拿破侖三世下令對波爾多酒莊進(jìn)行分級。于是肩負(fù)皇命的波爾多商會委托波爾多經(jīng)紀(jì)人聯(lián)合會遴選出最好的葡萄酒。經(jīng)紀(jì)人聯(lián)合會將最好的酒莊分為了五個等級，列出名單上呈。由此誕生了歷史上首個被公認(rèn)的葡萄酒莊分級制度。作為法國葡萄酒核心產(chǎn)區(qū)的地位，受益于此的這些波爾多名莊h和法國葡萄酒也因此而享譽(yù)全世界。

　　In 1855, Napoleon III, emperor of France, decided to throw a Universal Exposition in Paris, and wanted to represent French fine wine. He required Bordeaux's Chamber of Commerce to arrange an exhibit. The members of the chamber knew a hornet's nest when they saw one, so they passed the buck. They agreed, according to their records, to present "all our crus classés, up to the fifth-growths," but asked the Syndicat of Courtiers, an organization of wine merchants, to draw up "an exact and complete list of all the red wines of the Gironde that specifies in which class they belong." Curiously, all of the courtiers' selections came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (they also ranked the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac). However, 1855 classification has leaded French wine world widely famous and popular.

　　茶是最好的老師

　　如果將目光移向中國的西南邊陲云南，普洱茶其實早在其100多年前，已經(jīng)在十二版納區(qū)域形成了經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化中心，“改土歸流”的成功，1729年（清雍正七年）普洱府的成立，倚傍的興盛，易武的崛起，普洱茶沿著茶馬古道，遠(yuǎn)銷海外。嘉慶四年《滇海虞衡志》：“普茶名重于天下，此滇之所以為產(chǎn)而資利賴者也。出普洱屬六茶山：一曰攸樂，二曰革登，三曰倚邦，四曰莽枝，五曰蠻磚，六曰慢撒，周八百里，入山作茶者數(shù)十萬人。茶客收買，運(yùn)于各處。每盈路，可謂大錢糧矣?！?/p>

　　In south-west China, pu-erh tea had gained its fame even 100 earlier than that, established the center of economy and culture. In 1729(the 7th year of Yongzheng throne), because of the successful reform, the establishment of Pu’er government(in current Ning’Er county), later on the prosperity of Yibang and Yiwu(Old name is Mansha), pu-erh tea was taken along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, transported abroad already. Dian Hai Yu Hen Zhi(Yunnan chorography wrote by Tancui in 1798, the 4th year of JiaQing emperor), recorded that pu’erh tea was famous, therefore Yunnan businessmen made lots of fortune. There were six mountains produced pu’erh tea, which were Youle, Gedeng, Yibang, Mangzhi, Mansha, and ten thousand of people flooded into mountain from the surrounding 800 miles. They purchased tea, and sold in other cities, as a result, earned big money.

　　同行柯鋒先生分享“茶園分級體系”

　　200多年過去了，經(jīng)歷了歷史的滾滾紅塵，法國葡萄酒成為風(fēng)靡全世界高品質(zhì)葡萄酒的代言人，而普洱茶，經(jīng)歷了跌宕起伏的年代，雖然貴為國飲，但其整個產(chǎn)業(yè)化生產(chǎn)才剛剛起步。正如沙龍現(xiàn)場的朋友反映的一樣，我們連好茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么，都沒有辦法簡單回答，“古樹”、“純料”、“單株”“老茶”、“冰島”、“老班章”等滿天飛卻真假難辨，最直接的原因就是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的缺失和監(jiān)管的低效，才導(dǎo)致地理標(biāo)志產(chǎn)品規(guī)則被忽視，或者被濫用，從而使得市場混亂，三無產(chǎn)品橫行，普洱茶的品牌的誠信度和公信力亟待提高。

　　However, over 200 hundreds of years passed, French wine has definitely conquered the whole world, been granted the crown of best wine, pu-erh tea is nationally popular although, however its industrialized development just started. It is an agreeable truth that pu-erh tea is valuable, worthwhile for collection and investment, but how do we know it is a good cake of tea since the labels are not informative, fake branded teas like ancient tea tree, pure material, single tree, old tea, Bingdao, Laobanzhang, are filled in the market. Due to the lack of concrete standards and efficient supervise, the regulations of Geographic Indication Products do not guarantee anything currently, and that ruins the whole pu-erh industry.

　　我們熱愛中國的國粹普洱茶，我們已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好為普洱茶傾注一生?！昂貌璧臉?biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么？”，從這個問題出發(fā)，六山努力了17年。我們列出了一系列的主題，通過每月一次主題的深入對話，9月普洱茶法國之行，中法雙方代表企業(yè)的共同參與，志同道合的同行共同行動，我們相信，在普及葡萄酒文化的同時，也一定可以尋找到更適合普洱茶的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

　　We love pu-erh tea, we are ready to devote the whole life to it. Back to the initial question of what are the standards of good pu-erh tea, we listed the following subjects.Through monthly conference-dialogue wine and tea, including one conference in France in September, both Chinese and French tea companies and organizations participation, and all the individuals and tea companies in common interests take each active role, we believe that, we are able to provide better standards for pu-erh tea and Yunnan tea.

　　“普洱茶對話葡萄酒”論壇起航了，本系列論壇由杰曦法國葡萄酒引進(jìn)的來自AOC原產(chǎn)地教皇新堡魅夢干紅葡萄酒和六山賀開古茶莊園有機(jī)普洱茶全程贊助。伴著書香、茶香和酒香，看似小小的舞臺，因為有熱愛普洱茶、熱愛葡萄酒、熱愛中法文化的你們的參與，我們將共筑一個大大的夢想。隨著六山賀開古茶莊園即將竣工投產(chǎn)，古茶莊園即將迎來新的篇章。

　　The Series of Conference are sponsored by les Mementes AOC Chateauneuf du Pape and Hekai Ancient Tea Estate Organic Tea. It might be a small stage, it might be a small dream, with your supporting and attending, together, the dream will be ambitious and come true. We believe that Hekai Ancient Tea Estate will step into another new page soon.